{"id":860,"date":"2023-10-16T15:01:18","date_gmt":"2023-10-16T15:01:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/?p=860"},"modified":"2023-10-17T08:29:07","modified_gmt":"2023-10-17T08:29:07","slug":"why-vitamin-c-is-falling-out-of-favour-among-skincare-experts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/2023\/10\/16\/why-vitamin-c-is-falling-out-of-favour-among-skincare-experts\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Vitamin C Is Falling Out Of Favour Among Skincare Experts"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Whether you\u2019re an advocate of a 10-step skincare routine<\/a> or more into \u201cskinimalism\u201d<\/a>, chances are you\u2019ve tried vitamin C<\/a> before. Otherwise known as ascorbic acid, the skincare ingredient has multiple proven benefits: it protects the skin against environmental aggressors such as pollution<\/a>, minimises hyperpigmentation by controlling excess melanin (our skin\u2019s natural pigment), and boosts collagen<\/a>, which depletes as we age.\u00a0<\/p>\n

These brightening and plumping properties have undoubtedly contributed to vitamin C\u2019s celebrity-like status. Name any skincare brand and I can guarantee it boasts at least one serum, moisturiser or face mask with vitamin C as the star ingredient. And don\u2019t just take my word for it: Foundation, a performance marketing agency<\/a> for beauty brands, recently revealed that vitamin C is the most searched-for skincare ingredient in 2023. With an average of 8.3k google searches per month, it has left skin-rejuvenating retinol<\/a> and hydrating hyaluronic acid<\/a> firmly in the dust. But for all the buzz it receives, plus the praise from skincare enthusiasts and experts, there are plenty of naysayers, and they\u2019re taking to social media to make their thoughts known.<\/p>\n

In a recent video captioned \u201cWhy I hate vitamin C<\/a>\u201d, aesthetician and product developer Alicia Lartey<\/a> didn\u2019t hold back. \u201cVitamin C is not the most efficient way of dealing with pigmentation,\u201d says Lartey \u2014\u00a0especially for those with darker skin. She adds that many of the best vitamin C serums tend to be expensive, and the higher the percentage, the more potential for irritation, particularly if you are prone to acne<\/a>. \u201cIn theory, [vitamin C] sounds great. In practice, it does not deliver results,\u201d she says. Lartey\u2019s video amassed a handful of comments in agreement: \u201cI hate it too!\u201d wrote one. Another commented: \u201cI didn\u2019t realise how much L-ascorbic acid [a form of vitamin C] was irritating my skin until I saw a specialist.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

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@alicia.lartey<\/a> <\/p>\n

This is why i hate vitamin c for hyperpigmentation. If you are using vitamin c by itself especially as a black person (or POC with deep skin), you are fighting a losing battle. Theory does not always match up to practical application <\/p>\n

\u266c original sound \u2013 Alicia -Skincare, etc \ud83c\udf0a<\/a> <\/section>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Lartey and her followers aren\u2019t the only ones to show caution regarding vitamin C. Last year, dermatologist Dr Mark Strom went viral on TikTok for giving three reasons why someone might want to avoid vitamin C<\/a>, particularly if they have sensitive skin or rosacea<\/a>. Not long ago, a beauty editor friend of mine revealed that a dermatologist advised her to cut the vitamin C serum from her skincare routine, as it simply wasn\u2019t doing anything for her. Refinery29\u2019s beauty editor, Megan Decker, recently had a bad experience<\/a> with a highly concentrated vitamin C serum, which aggravated her reactive skin. Countless friends of mine have ditched vitamin C from their skincare regimens in the past few months for various reasons. All of this raises the question, is it the beginning of the end for the once-revered vitamin C?<\/p>\n

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@dermarkologist<\/a> Reasons why topical Vitamin C might not be a good choose for your skin #vitaminC<\/a> #antiagingskincare<\/a> #skincaretips<\/a> #acnetreatment<\/a> #dermatologist<\/a> \u266c Blue Blood \u2013 Heinz Kiessling<\/a> <\/section>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Is vitamin C necessary in skincare?<\/h2>\n

The experts I spoke to for this article agree that vitamin C can be beneficial, depending on your skin type and the results you\u2019re trying to achieve. \u201cThe scientific evidence is there for the skin-brightening, collagen-boosting, and protective benefits of vitamin C,\u201d explains Dr Justine Hextall<\/a>, a consultant dermatologist at Tarrant Street Clinic<\/a>, \u201cespecially when it comes to UV and pollution [because vitamin C is an antioxidant<\/a>].\u201d Sure enough, research shows that applying a vitamin C<\/a> serum before sunscreen further protects skin<\/a> against environmental aggressors that lead to DNA breakdown, which damages skin cells over time. However, not everyone is a good candidate for vitamin C.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cI see a lot of patients with sensitive and blemish-prone skin, especially rosacea,\u201d explains Dr Hextall. \u201cI often hold back with the vitamin C until I am satisfied that I have rebalanced the skin barrier<\/a> as far as I can,\u201d she adds. \u201cI know that when someone has super sensitive skin with significant irritation, the application of an acidic vitamin C solution can cause stinging and burning.\u201d In R29 beauty editor Megan Decker\u2019s case, user error was to blame for the reaction, which resulted in swollen eyelids and perioral dermatitis<\/a> (a white, bumpy rash around the mouth): the vitamin C serum\u2019s 25% concentration proved far too harsh for Decker\u2019s sensitive skin. Dermatologist Dr Shereene Idriss<\/a> told Decker that anything more than 10% vitamin C could irritate<\/a> sensitive skin.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Sensitive skin is a common symptom associated with rosacea, an oft-undiagnosed<\/a> inflammatory skin condition, which can cause redness, burning, itching and dryness. \u201cWhen it comes to vitamin C, everyone thinks the higher the percentage, the better,\u201d says Lartey; however, the \u201cmore is more\u201d theory could be very irritating if you have a chronic inflammatory skin condition like this, not to mention acne or eczema. If you have active acne, most dermatologists will advise you to avoid using vitamin C entirely, particularly in high concentrations, as the acidity and potential for irritation can exacerbate existing acne<\/a> or cause new breakouts<\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

Is vitamin C good for hyperpigmentation?<\/h2>\n

It might seem counterintuitive to use vitamin C as a treatment for hyperpigmentation, which is often a result of acne. On one hand, Dr Hextall thinks vitamin C\u2019s antioxidant properties help protect against UV and pollution, which can be sources of unwanted pigmentation. But if you\u2019re trying to eliminate\u00a0existing marks, you might want to explore alternative options. \u201cIn theory, vitamin C works well as a tyrosinase inhibitor [which stops the enzyme tyrosinase from causing excess pigment in the skin],\u201d says Lartey, \u201cbut in practice, vitamin C is one of the worst treatments for someone with serious hyperpigmentation or hyperpigmentation on my Black or brown clients. It has been touted as this almost \u2018god-like\u2019 skincare ingredient that protects your skin from free radical damage and supposedly gets rid of hyperpigmentation,\u201d says Lartey. \u201cWhile I do agree that the former property is useful \u2014 and works \u2014 the hyperpigmentation aspect is a dud.\u201d<\/p>\n

Lartey instead prefers products that incorporate one of the following ingredients: azelaic acid<\/a>, which improves skin tone and provides an anti-inflammatory effect; kojic acid<\/a>, which reduces excess melanin production to brighten skin; glycolic acid<\/a>, an alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA), which chemically exfoliates the skin; lactic acid<\/a>, a gentle AHA that exfoliates the top layer of the skin; and retinaldehyde<\/a>, which works much faster than retinol by encouraging skin cell turnover. Dr Hextall adds that tranexamic acid<\/a> (a skin brightener that fades discolouration), arbutin<\/a> (which also fades dark spots), niacinamide<\/a>, and retinoids<\/a> are also beneficial for pigmentation.<\/p>\n

Similarly, during a discussion in an Instagram live not long ago, consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto said that she could \u201ctake or leave\u201d vitamin C. Like Dr Hextall, she mentioned solid data detailing the benefits of vitamin C<\/a>, but Dr Mahto doesn\u2019t like layering lots of products onto her skin. \u201cI don\u2019t like products being layered on my patients\u2019 skin, either,\u201d Dr Mahto said. \u201cThe more variables I put into my treatment plan, the more likely it is that you will get peeling, irritation, and sensitivity. I would rather use less products but use more effective products.\u201d<\/p>\n

What are the downsides of vitamin C in skincare?<\/h2>\n

Vitamin C is complicated: skincare brands often present us with multiple versions (L-ascorbic acid, ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside to name a few), each in differing concentrations with percentages varying from 5% to an eye-wateringly high 30%. Then there\u2019s the question of how much vitamin C to use, and when, not to mention which skincare products are safe to combine it with (like sunscreen), and which aren\u2019t (for example, it\u2019s best to avoid mixing it with retinol or exfoliating acids<\/a> to avoid further irritation).\u00a0<\/p>\n

It\u2019s little wonder we\u2019re confused, and even the experts can relate: \u201cI am a consultant dermatologist and I struggle with percentages and formulations of vitamin C,\u201d says Dr Hextall. Essentially the most active form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid, which you\u2019ll spot on plenty of ingredient lists, but it is also the most unstable, according to Dr Hextall. This means it has a limited shelf life. If you\u2019ve ever bought a vitamin C serum only to notice that it has turned a dubious shade of orange after a few weeks, this is a sign that it has been exposed to light, air, or heat. It has become less stable and is no longer as effective. For this reason, Dr Hextall looks for formulations that combine L-ascorbic acid with other antioxidants, such as vitamin E. Not only does this boost the product\u2019s efficacy, but it helps stabilise the formula further, she says.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Why is vitamin C so expensive?<\/h2>\n

Despite vitamin C\u2019s finicky nature, serums that contain the ingredient are often expensive. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic<\/a> \u2014 a favourite of Dr Hextall and priced at a whopping \u00a3165 \u2014 is famed industry-wide, as is Dr. Barbara Sturm The Good C, \u00a3110<\/a>, and Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, \u00a370<\/a>. Generally, a product\u2019s price comes down to marketing or how much research has gone into a particular formula, says Lartey. Many brands also favour ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C. Furthermore, the ingredient\u2019s unstable nature often requires specific packaging, such as air-tight containers and dark glass bottles, which are less susceptible to light damage.\u00a0<\/p>\n

However, with costs rising left and right, many of us want to spend less on skincare: complicated skincare routines and layering trends aren\u2019t always feasible. Is it any wonder, then, that vitamin C seems to be getting the chop? It\u2019s certainly difficult to justify such a high price tag when the product might not last. \u201c[Every brand] claims to have proprietary formulas and stabilised vitamin C that works like magic,\u201d says Lartey. \u201cBut as someone who works behind the scenes in research and development, some of these product prices are truly unfounded and unexplainable,\u201d she reveals. In fact, Lartey believes that the price point mainly reflects a brand trying to establish the type of consumers it will have. What\u2019s more, Lartey thinks you likely won\u2019t need a dedicated vitamin C serum if you\u2019re looking to include it in your routine. Much like hyaluronic acid,<\/a> it could already be in your current moisturiser or even your sunscreen, so it\u2019s worth checking the ingredients list.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

What\u2019s the difference between expensive and cheap vitamin C?<\/h2>\n

If you\u2019re not ready to give up your dedicated vitamin C serum, will a cheap alternative work? \u201cIn my view, you tend to get what you pay for,\u201d says Dr Hextall. \u201cIf you are looking for an effective, stable vitamin C serum with a powerful antioxidant formulation, it isn\u2019t going to be your cheapest purchase.\u201d She always advises her patients on where they should splurge and where they can budget. As UV and pollution are the most damaging aggressors to our skin (causing around 80% of visible damage<\/a> and photoaging) potent antioxidants like vitamin C, not to mention high factor, broad spectrum sunscreens<\/a> are key and worth the investment, says Dr Hextall. In her experience, cheap vitamin C serums have proven ineffective or are formulated at unnecessarily high concentrations that are acidic and irritating to skin. They are subsequently often abandoned by users, says Dr Hextall, which is money down the drain.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Not all products are created equal, though, and a handful of effective, affordable vitamin C serums exist. As someone with acne who can\u2019t tolerate most vitamin C serums, I\u2019ve seen positive results<\/a> while using The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%, \u00a312.70<\/a>. Ascorbyl glucoside comes from vitamin C but is less potent. GP and dermatology expert Dr Anita Sturnham<\/a> once told me<\/a>, \u201cIt\u2019s the only derivative of vitamin C which is converted into ascorbic acid in the skin, so you get all the ascorbic acid benefits without the reaction.\u201d I also rate Lumene Nordic-C Glow Boost Essence Serum, \u00a332.90<\/a>, currently \u00a326.30 at Sephora, which brightens skin gently, and L\u2019Or\u00e9al Paris Revitalift Clinical 12% Pure Vitamin C Serum<\/a>, \u00a329.99.<\/p>\n

Overall, the best skincare product, or routine, is one that works for you, particularly where efficacy and budget are concerned. If vitamin C has transformed your skin, that\u2019s great. Dr Hextall believes that the right introduction to an effective vitamin C formulation, combined with good sun protection, can make skin glow, after all. But if you\u2019re happy without vitamin C, there\u2019s no need to get trapped in the glossy marketing or the fanfare on social media.\u00a0<\/p>\n

At Refinery29, we\u2019re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Whether you\u2019re an advocate of a 10-step skincare routine or more into \u201cskinimalism\u201d, chances are you\u2019ve tried vitamin C before. Otherwise known as ascorbic acid, the skincare ingredient has multiple proven benefits: it protects the skin against environmental aggressors such as pollution, minimises hyperpigmentation by controlling excess melanin (our skin\u2019s natural pigment), and boosts collagen, which depletes as we age.\u00a0 These brightening and plumping properties have undoubtedly contributed to vitamin…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":862,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[15],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/860"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=860"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/860\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":863,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/860\/revisions\/863"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/862"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=860"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=860"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ebonyassvids.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=860"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}